Flaneur in Bologna

Living in the historical center of bologna offers many advantages, from the cozy feeling provided by the porticoes to the possibility to go on foot practically everywhere (plus, well, the thrill to have a front-row view of a slowly collapsing tower). And if you are, like me, addicted to ancient grains bread, ugly-but-tasty seasonal fruits and waiting in line to get your weekly supply of freshly harvested veggies, you will love the abundance of different farmers’ markets, each one with its distinctive identity and signature products, all a pleasure to visit. Without further ado, here’s a list of the main ones, Monday to Sunday.

Campi Aperti on Piazza VIII Agosto (Mondays)

Small and rustic, this modest market once occupied Piazza Verdi (photo above) in the University area, but has been moved to a corner of the massive VIII Agosto square, more known for its Friday and Saturday clothing market Piazzola. Despite the humble setup of just two rows of sellers and some tables in the center, the market thrives, thanks to a loyal clientele and to the dedication of Campi Aperti , a local network of self-managed, politically engaged markets focusing on organic farming, food sovereignty, and territoriality. It stands out as one of the few markets offering unpackaged millet, and its stall dedicated to edible and aromatic plants boasts an impressive variety of mint species. Additionally, visitors can purchase unique avocados from Sicily. Full list of sellers here. Address: Piazza VIII Agosto.

Campi Aperti at Vag61 (Tuesdays)

Just slightly outside the city center, yet within walking distance from both San Donato and San Vitale wall doors, the Tuesday edition of Campi Aperti offers a more social, spacious, and politically charged experience. Set in the outdoor space of self-managed community center Vag61, it draws a diverse crowd of students and local residents. With its relaxed, slightly alternative atmosphere, the market also serves as a gathering place for free spirits looking to enjoy aperitivo and a conversation over politics. Full list of sellers here. Opening times: 5-30 PM to 10-30 PM. Address: Via Paolo Fabbri 112.

Mercato Ritrovato at the Cineteca di Bologna (Wednesdays)

As one of the town’s most cherished farmers’ markets, Saturday’s Mercato Ritrovato (see below) holds a special place in the hearts of locals. Its popularity led the Cineteca guys to introduce a mid-week, early evening extra-edition. Held in the courtyard outside the local Cinematheque, known as Piazzetta Pasolini, this smaller, charming version of the Saturday market offers the usual signature array of organic wines, artisanal beers, and rustic fare sourced from nearby farms. With its lively atmosphere, it serves as both a perfect after-work spot for post-work shopping and drinks, as well as a cool pre-movie activity. Opening times: 5-30 PM to 9-30 PM (March to November). Address: Via Azzo Gardino 65.

Campagna amica on Via San Giuseppe (Thursdays)

Here’s another small one. Just round the corner from Via Indipendenza and Arena del Sole theatre you’ll find this modest yet reputable market organized by Campagna Amica, a much bigger project than Campi Aperti and a whole different universe. Unlike Campi Aperti, Campagna Amica is closely affiliated with Coldiretti, the national organization of agricultural entrepreneurs. While it may not feature strictly organic produce or take any political stance, the prices remain reasonable, and the quality of products satisfactory. Opening times:  12-30 PM to 7-30 PM. Address: Via San Giuseppe.

Campi aperti at Tettoia Nervi (Thursdays)

Looking for a vibrant alternative on Thursdays? Step beyond Bologna’s familiar confines—the historic center within the ancient walls—and immerse yourself in the diverse crowd gathering under the Tettoia Nervi, nestled in the heart of the Bolognina area. In addition to finding great products, once again offered by Campi Aperti for its richest market of the week, you’ll be greeted by a lively atmosphere that embodies a more authentic, non-touristy side of Bologna— a local flavor that is much more difficult to find under the porticoes and that has a lot to offer. Spare some time for some oven-baked pizza and a refreshing beer at one of the communal tables basking in the sun, or savor a spritz at Dimondi kiosk. Overall, it’s an experience worth savoring, whether you’re alone or with friends, and a great way to spend a couple of hours in this lesser known part of town. Full list of sellers here. Opening times: 5-30 PM to 9-30 PM. Address: Piazza Lucio Dalla.

Mercato Ritrovato at Cineteca di Bologna (Saturdays)

Undoubtedly the most vibrant and sought-after of them all, the farmer’s market held in front of Bologna’s prestigious cinematheque stands as a Saturday institution. Formerly organized by Slow Food and now run independently by a collective of around 50 farmers in conjunction with Cineteca di Bologna, the lively Mercato Ritrovato boasts a dedicated following of families and enthusiasts. Many patrons gather around the long tables scattered across Piazzetta Pasolini, indulging in a variety of culinary delights from the numerous street food kiosks offering everything from vegan burgers to grilled fish, complemented by artisanal beer and local wine. The actual market stalls are located on neighboring Piazza Anna Magnani, with a cornucopia of ancient grains, alternative flours, rich cheeses, and fresh pasta. The experience is completed by the presence of street musicians, a children’s corner, and various cookery or traditional crafts workshops, adding to the festive atmosphere. Perfect size, many interesting products and a fun atmosphere. Full list of (rotating) sellers here. Opening times: 9 AM to 2 PM. Address: Via Azzo Gardino 65.

Campi Aperti at Pratello (Saturdays)

For those seeking a quieter and more intimate ambiance or wishing to experience Via del Pratello during daylight hours, the little market hosted by Campi Aperti in front of San Rocco church provides a low key alternative to Mercato Ritrovato. Comprising only a handful of stalls, the market boasts a particularly intriguing vendor (whom you can also meet them during the Thursdays market at Tettoia Nervi), specializing in homemade herbal remedies alongside a delightful selection of aromatic salts. Embracing a no-frills atmosphere, it offers visitors a genuine and unpretentious shopping experience. Full list of sellers here. Opening times: 9 AM to 2 PM. Address: Piazza San Rocco.

Famers market at Piazza Aldrovandi (Sundays)

Small and basic, this market situated on the picturesque Piazza Aldrovandi features a single stall for each grocery necessity—dairy, vegetables, fruits, and more—alongside a delightful vendor offering seasonal wildflowers. It’s the perfect spot for a tranquil Sunday morning excursion. After completing your shopping, you can stop at one of the many nearby food kiosks. I recommend indulging in an espresso or cappuccino at Terzi, or savoring a refreshing drink at Ofelia. Alternatively, many opt for lunch at the spacious restaurant-café, La Sartoria. Opening hours: 8.30 – 13.00. Address: Piazza Aldrovandi.

Mercato del Novale on Piazza Carducci (Sundays)

Last but not least, just a few step from Piazza Aldrovandi you’ll find this other market, that is coordinated by Slow Food and is a great stop on your way to Giardini Margherita. Sunny and spacious, just slightly bigger and posher than its neighbor but with the same relaxed pace and local customers, this market located on Piazza Carducci, in front of the small Risorgimento museum and the monument to Carducci (an esteemed Italian poet of the late 19th century), offers a very interesting selection of cheeses, some slightly pricey bread and a remarkable plants and flowers stall. Opening hours: 9.00 – 13.00. Address: Piazza Carducci.